Discovery of Rajgir.

Rediscover Rajgir
Travel Account. Dr. Madhup Raman.

collage : vidisha

  










Rajgir an ancient city Lying 101 Km (65 miles) south east of Patna, the hill-girt town has been associated, from time immemorial, with mighty empires, which, once, hold say over the entire length and breadth of India. It had also the privilege of association with great and mighty men,. Who, though, long dead, are, even, today, influencing the mind and the spirit of a fairly large portion of humanity, spread over the entire civilized world. Amongst the great with whom Rajagriha had an intimate association, Lord Mahavira and Buddhas are the most hallowed names.
     Vasumati - found in the Ramayanas, probably owes origin to the mythical King Vasu, the fourth son of brahma, the creator, to whom the foundation of the city traditionally as described Brihadrathapur found in the Mahabharta and the Puranas, is reminiscent of King Brihdrath forefather of the famous King Jarasandha and the Progenitor of a dynasty.
    Grivarja - means the enclosure of hills. Was Called because the area comprising the city (valley) was encircled on all sides by hills.
    Kusagrapur -  it was called either probably because of the King Kusagra, the successor of Birhadratha,  because of the fragrant grass the grew in abundance in the valley-ity.
    Rajgriha - The Royal Palace, is an appropriate designation of a place that remained the capital of Magadha Empire for centuries
The hills that encircle Rajgir are five in number. The Mahabharata, for example, gives their names as Vaibhara Varaha, Vrishabha, Rishigiri and Chaityaka, at another place, however, the same specifies them as Pandaram, Vipula, Varahaka, Chaityaka and Matanga. The Pali texts have another set of names: Vaibhara, Pandava, Vaipulya, Gridhrakuta and Rishgiri. The present names are Vaibhara, Vipula, Ratna, Chhatha, Saila, Udays and Sona, their origin being due to Jainas.
     Kingship, King Jarasandha
The Mahabharata which professes to give an earlier account of Rajagriha when it was the capital of Jarasandha, who said to have gained reputation as the most powerful king of his time. To establish a military alliance, king Jarasand married his two daughter Asti and Prasti with Kansa, The mighty king of Mathura and the maternal uncle of Lord Krishna. When Lord Krishna, killed Kansa for his misdeeds Jarasand marched several times on to Mathura to exterminate the tritesman time. The Maahabharata and the Brahma Purana state that during his march on Mathura Jarasandha defeated and captured many king of north India and imprisoned them in Girivraja. It is said the the number of the imnurisoned them king becomes 99 and Jarasandha wanted to offer 100 kings in sacrifice to Siva, So powerful was Jarasandha that without defeating him Yudhishthira could not claim paramount sovereignty by performing the Rajasuya Yagya. The Mahabharata and Bhagavata Purna describe that accompanied by Bhima and Arjuna Krishna went to Giribraja and acting on Krishna advie Bhimakilled Jarasanda in duel at RANBHUMI by the unchivalrus devie of catching him by the thigh and tearing him a pert. Krishna placed Sahadeva the son of Jarasand, on the throne of Magadha and set free all the king imprisoned by Jarasanda, The dynasty of Jarasanda, however, continued to rule till some time later.
       King Bimbisara Harnayak Dynasty
King Bimbisara with his capital at Rajagrihas was ruling over Magadha when Prince Siddhartha Gautam visited the city for the first time before becoming the Enlightened one. King Bimbisara was one of the four powerful kings, holding sway over North India, the other three being King Prasenajit of Kosala, Udayana of Vatsa and Pradyota of Avanti Bimbisara was known also by the name of SRENIKA or SRENYA.
Bimbisara committed Magadha to career of conquest and the entripetal force that began to operate under him stopped only at the time of Emperor Ashoka when Magadha became the centre of an Empire extending over India and Afghanistan.
       King  Ajatasatru - King Bimbisara was a great admire of Buddha and his creed. In hs old age he said to have been imprisoned and killed by his son and successor Ajathsatru (491-59 B.C.),  who however, later on submitted to Buddha and became a cconvert to his creed Fa-Hien, the earlier Chinese pilgrim. Ascribes to him the foundation of the New Capital oustside the hills and is partially supported by Hiuen Tsang. In the Pali texts he is said to have repaired the fortifications of the city in anticipation of an attack from the ferocious Pradyota, the King of Avanti. It is said that Ajatasatru was also tortured to death by his son.
Rajagriha, the capital of the powerful Magadha kingdom, became famous thoughuout India for its wealth and magnificence. Its vastness is indicated by the boundary walls. Buddhghosha mentions that the city had 32 maingates with 64 minor ones. The city was a large centre of trade and commerce. Many great merchants of Rajagriha went on sea voyages in onnection with trade and many foreign merchants also came to Rajagriha. Rajagriha was also the chief centre in the age for the propagation of religious and shilosophical thought.
The city of Rajagriha was divided into two parts inner city and the outer city. It is not clear whether the entire nill-girt city or not. But by  the inner city  meant the hill girt city and by outer city ment the suburban areas outside such as the present New Fort  on the north-as was mentioned also by Hiuen Tsng, that the southern part of the hill-girt city contained the Royal establishments and this part was separted by a wall from southern part containing the palace was called, the outer city. Hiuen Tsang also speaks sometimes of the Palace city and sometimes of the Mountain city  in connection with the old town. Dr. Magumdar has shown that by Place city Hiuen Tsang ment the southern part of the hill-girt ancient town and by Mountain city he meant the northern part of it. Hiuen Tsang heard that the hill-girt city (old Fort, as it is now called) was called Girivraja and the town on the north of it (now called the new Fort) was called Rajagriha. Fa-Hien also speaks of the new town and the old town and the heard that the new town was built by Ajatasatru while Hiuen Tsang heard that it was built by Bimbisara according to some and by Ajatasatru accrding to others.
By judging from the legends record by Hiuen tsang, it seems probable the New Town was built either towards the end of Bimbisaras reign or during the reign of Ajatasatru. If may be that the king shifted his place here when the old city was destroyed by fire or when an epidemic was reaging, or it may be that the king built a new fortress here as a protection against the attack of the Lichehhavis of Vaisalt from the north.
The prosperity of Rajagriha declined after the building of Patliputra (Present Patna) by Ajatasatru or his successor Udayin (circa 459-443 B.C.) on the river Ganges From this time the political importance of Rajagriha gradually decreased, though we have a passing reference in the Puranas that once more became the capital of Magadha under Sishunaga (cira 411-393 B.C.) The subsequent, kings, however, again reverted to Patliputra, but the fact that Asoka erected at Rajagriha a stupa and a pillar with an elephant-capital show that the place was not altogether insignificant in the third century B.C.
Religion
      Jainism and  Buddhism in Rajagriha-  Rajagriha was an important centre of Buddhism and Jainism. Buddha passed many years of his imistrationsat this place. It was the secene of many sermons and important events of lis life. His favourite resorts were the Gridharkuta nd the Venuvana. After the death of Buddh, Ajatastru brought his share of the corporeal relics of the Master to Rajagriha and enshrined them in a stupa. A few months later, when the leading Buddhist monks decided to hold a council to form a corpus of the teachings of Buddha, Ajatasatru accommodated them in a large hall in front of the Saptaparni vave, specially built for the purpose.
Jainism- Lord Mahavira, the last of the jaina Tirthankaras, passed fourteen rainy seasons at Rajagriha and its suburb of Nalanda. He had many rich supporters at Rajagriha and it is interesting it to note that the Jainas too claim Bimbisare and Ajatasatru as voaries of their faith and in their texts they are know as Srenika and Kunika Rajagrhia was also regarded at the birth place of Mun Suvrata, the tweneth Tirthankara of the eleven Ganadharas, the chief disciples of Lord Mahavira every one died on the top of hills of Rajagriha.
The modern religious importance of the place is largel due to the Jainas, with a characteristic fondness for heights have built temples at the top of almost all the hills.
      Sufism - It is always heard that Makhdoom Baba also lived here for many years and spent his ascetic life and later on he shifted to Biharsharif and settled there.
      Sikhism - It also remains in a tale that Guru Nanak also spent his valuable time in Rajgir too. Nanak Kund sets an example for the first Guru and founder of Sikhisim.
      Places of interest in Rajgir
      A.Venuban - About 150 yards to the north of the modern temples near the hot springs, the visitor will a large tank immediately to the right of the footpath. This has been identified with the Kasanda Tank. Proceeding a short distance from the southern bank of this tank and again to the ritht of the footpath is a large mound, believed to mark the site of the stupa and Vihara of Venuvana or a Bamboo Grove. One the other side of the stream are the remains of a stone wall rossing thestream possibly an ancient cause way repaired in latter times. The little garden on the other side of the stream has been identified as a part of Venuvana. The excavation brought to the light the foundation of a room and the bases of nine contain nothing but pottery vases filled with earth, on the east sloe of the mould revealed no structure except some antiquities. Now the venuban in Kund Area is the best developed park.
      B.Maniyar Math - It's name Maniyar Math was originally applied to a small Jaina temple built on the top of a brick mound, about 20 It high. Worship of Nagas (Serpents), Yakshas (Demi Gods) and minor deities was the primitive religion of Rajgir. The Mahabharata refers to the temples of two pannagas or Nagas, namely, Maninaga and Svasuka in Girvraja. These two serpents tormented the enemies. I his Maniyar Math is probably the temple of Maninaga.
In 1861-62 A Cunningham sank a shaft near the Math and without destroying it at the top he went down to dept of about 21 ft. in the well and recovered three small figures 19 ft. below the surface. One of them represented in its lower portion Maya lying on a couch. The ascetic Budhha being portrayed above; the second was a Jaina standing figure with a hood of a seven-eaded serpent, Parasvnath : and the third was too crude to be identified. In 1905-6 Block fur ther excavated the mound demolishing the Jaina temple on the top and exposed a massive brick structure decorated with well preserved stucco figures around the base. The images were about 2ft. high and included (1) a linga bearing a garland of ffowers; (2) crowned four-armed Vishnu with the upper hands broken; (3) Nagi and five Naga canoied by serpent hoods; (4) Ganesa seated on rocks with cobras twisted around his body; and (5) six-armed dancing Siva, bearing a cobra and arrayed in a tiger skin. From their style the images appear to have been erected in the Gupta period.
It is certain that the buildings on the site are the result of successive accumulations of ages, the last of them being the Jaina Temple of late date.
On and near Maniyar Math were found scattered many Potery jars, some of them being about 4ft. in height. A peculiar feature of these jars were that thre were spouts, of which some were curiously shaped as serpent hoods. On some there were a row of earthem lamps in addition to the spouts. Though there is no ancient paralled to these finds it is interesting to note that similar jars with spouts are still used in Bengal in the worship of serpents under the name Manasa.
     C.Son Bhandar - By a road running to the north west of Maniyar Math the visitor will come to a group of two caves cut in southern scarp of the Vaibhara hill. The rock in which the caves are excavated is not sufficient by suitable for the excavation of caves, so that the roof of the eastern one has entirely fallen off, while the level of both the caves differs. There was a roofed verandah in front of the caves as is indicated by beam holes on the outer wall. Inside the cave on the southern wall, are six small figures of the Jain Tirthankaras carved in relief and representing Padmaparbhu, Parasvnatha and Mahavira. The inscription on the caves shows the they were excavated in the third of fourth century A.D.by a Jaina ascetic, and their Jaina origin is also indiated by the images of Jaina Tirthankara appearing on the southern walls.             
     D.Jarasandh ka Akhada - 1.3 K.M. to the west of Sonbhadar and approached by a narrow footpath is situated what is locally known as the Akhara or Rana Bhumi of Jarasandha Tradition asserts that at this particular place Bhima and King Jarasandha fought for twenty eight days before the mighty king was over-powered and killed by Bhima.
     E.Bimbisar Jail - Proceeding southwards along the main road and about 1 K.M. from Maniyar Math, the visitor will find an area, about 220 ft. square, enclosed by a stone wall. It has been identified with the prison in which Bimbisara was confined by his son Ajatasatru. It is said that from his prison Bimbisara was able to see Buddha on the Gridhrakuta. Partial clearance of the site brought to light stone cells, in one of which was found an iron ring with a loop at one extremity, which might possibly have served the purpose of manacling the prisoners.
    F.Shell Inscriptions - Towards the southern end of the valley, in an enclosure there is a large number of inscriptions in shell characters and at several places ruts of ancient carts or chariot wheels which have cut deep into the rocky soil, can be seen. From their distribution and associations, it seems that the were popular in the 4-th century A.D.
    G.Jivika's Mangoes Garden - Marking straight for the foot of the Chhatha giri the visitor will go eastward, past the probable site of the mango-garden of Jivaka and the Maddakuchchhi monastry Jiavka was the most famous physician of his day and was attached to royal court of Bimbisara and Ajatasatru. He presented his extensive mango-graden to Buddha and the community and made it into a monastery.
    F.Marda-Kukshi - Once when the Budda was wounded by a splinter of the great rock hurled at him by his rival cousin Devadatta, he was first brought here before he could be removed to Jivakas monastery. The place contained a deep park and a monastery. The sankrit name Marda-Kukhi or Rub Belly gave rise to a storey that at this particular place, one of the wives of Bimbsara, knowing that she was carrying a patricide, tied to get rid of the unborn child by a forcible message.
     G.Gridhakuta - It is one of the highest peaks surrounding the it. This was the favourite resort of Buddha and the ceene of many of his important sermons. At some distance from the summit there is a number of small caves, which were then used by the monks. The Anand (Chif disciple of Buddha) cave is just adjacent to the peak, the two other below are said to have  been occupied by other important disciples. King Bimbisaa had originally constructed the light of steps from the foot of the Chhata hill to the top. Emperor Ashoka got the flight of steps repaired. Hiuen Tsang stated that there were two stupas, the first about 80 yeards from the base and the second further up where the road turns to the north. He also says that the first commemorated the sport where Bimbisara got down from his chariot and the second where the king sent back the crowd that was accompanying him During excavation a number of terracotta plaques with the seven past and Maitreya, the Furture Buddha, seated in two rows and Buddhist creed inscribed below each Buddhist monuments, which show that the place was considered holy by the Buddhists down to later ages.
      H.Vishwa Shanti Stupa -Vishwa Shanti Stupa constructed at a cost of over Rupees 22 lakhs by Rev, Fiji of Japan. During the second world war when the prosperous cities of Horsima and Nagasaki of Japan were burnt to ashes by Atom Bomb Guruji in his anxiety to prevent a recurrence of such disaster decided to propagate the Buddist Philosophy of world peace and he started constructing Vishwa Shanti stupes in different countries of the world. This Stupa at the peek of Sonagiri is 22nd such in the series-Near the Stupa is a big Park and a Monastery for the Japanese Monks, and a landing ground where helicopters can land.
     I. Arial Ropeway - The Aerial Ropeway is now the chief attraction of modern Rajgir. In order to easy reach the Shanti Stupa from the foot of tatnagiri Hill, an electrically operated Ropeway lift carrying about 114 chair has been constructed with the co-operation of Japan at ost of more than Six Lakhs of Rupess-The lift takes about seven minutes only to carry a passenger from bottom to the top near the Stupa.
The charge is Rupee one only per adult for both up and down Journey. The lift remain closed on every THURS-DAY. On the Vaibhara Hill,
    J.Pippla Stone Cave or Jarasand - Ki- Baithak From the north east coner slope of the Vaibhara hill, a little above the Satdhara group of hot spring is a remrk-able stone structure locally known as the machan or Jarasandha Ki Baithak, which has been indentifed with the residence of Pippala mentioned in the Buddhist text and the accounts of the chinese pilgrims. The structure measuring 85 ft. by 81 ft. at the base and 811/2 ft. by 78 ft. at the top and 22 ft. to 28 ft. high. It is built of large unhewn blocks of stone and contains near the base several small cells on all sides. Some Pail texts describes the cave as the residence of Mahakasyapa, the president of the First Buddhist Council and it is said that on one occasion Budha visited Mahakasyapa when the latter was lying in cave, suffering greatly in mind and body. According to archeologists this site exactly corresponds to the indications given by Hieun Tsang of the stone house where Devadatta, the cousin of Buddha,  entered Samadhi.
       K.Saptkarni Cave - Up to hill above  the Pippla Cave to the right leads alight of steps to the Saptaparni cave, where the first Buddhist council of 500 leading disciplines of Lord Buddha, was held six months after the death of Buddha Saptaparni cave, is a long artificial terrace in front of the line of six (originally the number might have been seven) caves, all contained in a semi-circular bend of the rocks. Part of this path is paved with stones and looks like a causeway of 6 ft. wide. Four of the caves are in fairly good state of preservation. The terrace in front of the caves is about 120 ft. long and 24 ft. wide at the east and 12  ft. at the western extremity. According to Jaina literature the cave is described ROHANIYA CAVE.
      L.Old Jain Cave - Returning to the flat space on which stand the modern Jaina Temple the visitor will find an ancient ruind Jains Temple, which has been fully exposed and repaired. The temple consists of a central chamber facing east, surrounded by a court which again is fianked on all sides by rows of cells. The central chamber as  well as these cells are provided with niches in the walls to contain images. Most of these images are now missing and those exist is also a fine figure of Mahavira with an indistinct inscription of about the fifth century A.D. on the pedestal.
   The Jaina establishments on the Vailbhara hill are certainly old. This is shown not only by the inscription but by the statement of Hiuen Tsang that in his time named (Digamber Jaina) ascetics frequented the place in great numbers.
M. Mahadev Temple - A few yards to the south of the Jaina Temple is a ruined Siva Temple. It consists of a small sanctum about 10 ft. square internally. The sanctum has a flat roof and enshrines a small linga, a headless bull and a miniature Sikhara.
      N. Ban Ganga - Making straight for the pass between the Udaya and Sona hills, the visitor will go past till the Banganga defile is reached. Here the stone walls of the outer fortifications, running on the top of all the hills of Rajgir attract ones attention. The Forest Department has constructed a Pavilion from where can have a very beautiful view of the southern valley.
O.Hot Springs - At the foot of some Rajgir hiils hot springs rush out from subterranean depths. The waters of the springs have from very ancient times, been regarded as very sacred and a natural gift. The mineral water had a high curative value. Scientific tests have revealed that the water of springs is radio active. People suffering from rheumatism and allied troubles are much benefited by bathing in these springs.
      Sapt Dhara,Brahm Kund,Nanak Kund, and Makhdoom Kund are such sources of water where the pilgrims used to take bathe with a religious faith for getting ride of many physical and skin diseases.
      P.The Cyclopian Wall -The outer walls of the ancient Rajgir ran 41 to 49 K.M. along the crest of the hills. The face of the walls was built of massive undressed stones between these and five feet long carefully fitted and bounded together. The core between them is composed of smaller blocks not so well cut and laid with chips and fragments of stones. The fortifications stood the highest on the east and west of the Banaganga pass where their elevation is still eleven to twelve feet high. A noticeable feature of the fortification walls is the bastions attached to the outer-fringe of the walls, where special strength was required.
     Q.Ajatshatruort and New Rajgir -The fort lies between the bus stand and the Dak-Biaglow Area. The wall is faced with solid unhewn blocks of stones set without any mortar. Fa Hieu says that Ajatasatru built a fort outside the hill-girt area. Hiuen Tsang on the other hand, ascribes, the building of the New Capital to Bimbisara himself. The modern town of Rajgir is situated on a part of the site of the New city. The wall once surrounding the town has almost entirely disappeared; but the citadel-wall is still fairly well-preserved. The wall is about 15 to 18 ft. thick and stands to a height of 11 feet at places.
R.Ajatshatru Stupa - To the west of the new city, on the other side of the stream Saraswati, is large mound which marks the site of stupa, that of Ajatasatru according to Fa-Hien and of Ashoka according to Hieun Tsang.
Pillar  Hiuen Tsang saw near the stupa a pillar 50 ft. high surrounded by an elephant. But no traces of the pillar exists now, nor is it mentioned by Fa-Hien.
    S.Makhdoom Kund - Makhdum Shah Sharfuddin was born at Manershrif in the district Patna,  spent about 12 years in the jungles of Rajgir (13th century). A small cavein upper enclouser is said to have been used by the saint for purposes of meditation. There is also a natural hot water spring which was formerly also known as Ringi Rishi Kund. The Saint died in the town of Bihar Sharif.
     T.Excavations - The survey of the site and the trial excavations made indicate that the old city had two boundary walls, the outer having a circuit of no less than 40 to 48 Kms.(25-30 miles), it being carried over  the surrounding hills. The inner wall has a circuit of about 6 Kms. (4 miles) and it perhaps enclosed only the Royal Palaces and the mansions of the nobility.  Both these walls, are made of massive stone boulders but they are in a state of extreme decay. The thickness of she walls extant is 14 feet 4 inches while the height at palaces is 11 feet. Bastions strengthen the walls at intervals attached to the outer fringe of the walls, where special strength was required.
Of the gates in the outer city walls traces of only one on the north are visible. In the Pali texts Rajgir is said to have possessed thirty two large gates and sixty four smaller ones. zigzag wall Beginning at the foot of the Ratnagiri and going up the hill is a igzag stone wall whih might have also been erected for defencive purposes. The foundations of the New cityerected by either Bimbisara or his son Ajatasatru can be seen while going to Bus stand.
     U.Jain Temples on the Peaks - Dotted on practically each hill top at Rajgir are small temples belonging to the Jains which are of great sancity.
V.Panch Pahari a.Vipulachal Hill -   Four Digamber Temples and one Swatamber Temple.
Ratnagiri Hill  Three digamber Temples (2 old and 1 new) and one four faced Swatamber Temple.
b.Udaygiri Hill - Two Digamber Temples (one old and one new) and the third is a excavated old temple. The fourth is a Swatamber Temple.
c.Swarngiri Hill - Two Digamber Temples (one old and one new)  and one Swatamber Temple.
d.Vaibhargiri Hill - One Digamber and four Swatamber Temples. A old Jain Temple with 24  images of Thirthankaras  was also excavated during excavation.
Note :-  On each peak of the five hills popularly called Panch Pahari stairs have been constructed by Jainis.
W.Naulakha Temple In the town  two Digamber Jain and one Swatamber Jain Temple known as Naulakha are worth seeing.
X.Japanese Temple and rest house  Situated to the east oof Ajatasatru Stupa, where Japanese priest can be seen worshipping in Japanese style.
Y.Burmese temple and rest house -  In the north ward of the Japanese temple and after Dormitory is the Burmese Temple.

Dr. Madhup Raman
Free Lance Cartoonist and Blogger.

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